Written by Daniel Reviewed by Angela

GE Refrigerator Troubleshooting Guide (everything you need to know)

A refrigerator is such a common kitchen appliance nowadays, we all own at least one refrigerator and as they’re generally so reliable, we all take them for granted. Which is why it becomes such a major problem if the refrigerator develops a fault. Go back 100 years and there was no such thing as a refrigerator.

In fact the very first appliance that we’d recognise as a refrigerator didn’t make an appearance until 1927. Made in the USA by the General Electric company, and named the “Monitor-Top” because of its similarity to the gun turrets of the USS Monitor warship. By the mid 1940s around 85% of American households owned a refrigerator and GE has been a major contributor to the design and development of refrigerators since their 1920s inception.

With such a proven track record, it’s no wonder so many of us own GE refrigerators today. So it’s an even bigger drama when for whatever reason your GE refrigerator develops a fault. In this article we’ll look at all of the possible common (and not so common) faults and the best way to fix them.

Table of Contents

GE Refrigerator Not Working At All

The very first thing to check if your GE refrigerator isn’t working at all, is the power supply. Is it plugged in? You’d be surprised just how many times engineers report the issue was as simple as the fridge not being connected to the main power supply. Is the power supply to your home working? A power outage during daylight hours can often be overlooked.

Is the appliance plugged into a fully functional socket? To check this, try plugging something else into that socket to see if it works. Once you’ve established the problem’s not due to the actual power supply, you need to check for one of the following;

Frayed or damaged cable
Blown fuse/circuit breaker
Refrigerator motor overheating
Faulty compressor

Damaged Cable

If the power cable is visibly damaged, it can be potentially very dangerous and the appliance shouldn’t be used at all.

Blown Fuse/Circuit Breaker

Fuses don’t blow for no reason, we suggest you get your appliance checked by a fully qualified electrical engineer.

Motor Overheating

If the motor or any other part of your fridge is overheating it will probably be accompanied by a loud beeping and possibly smoke too. You need to disconnect the power supply and contact a professional immediately.

Faulty Compressor

This is one of the most common causes of refrigerator break-downs. But sometimes, there’s nothing wrong with the compressor, it’s just not making any noise because the fridge is at its set temperature and the compressor has shut down. The quickest way to check this is to open the fridge door for 10 minutes or so.

As the heat rises within the refrigerator, the compressor will start up to lower the fridge’s temperature. If the compressor doesn’t cut in with the door open for a spell, it could be defective. We advise calling in an electrical engineer (or contacting GE if your fridge is still under warranty).

Check The Refrigerators Settings

Check the display on your fridge, is it running a defrost cycle? Or has it reached its set temperature? The average GE fridge is typically silent for around 30 minutes every hour.

Temperature Problems With GE Refrigerators – Fridge Not Cooling

If your GE refrigerator isn’t cooling you should consider the following actions;

Inspect The Condenser

Look at the condenser, is it dirty? If it is, you should clean it, and inspect the fan, it should spin freely with only a slight amount of pressure. If there is resistance, it could be a problem with the condenser fan motor. To check this use a multimeter and check for continuity, if there’s no continuity you need to replace the condenser motor.

Check the condenser coils, if these are dirty they won’t work correctly. The coils are responsible for making sure the fridge doesn’t overheat, they remove heat from the cooling system which can only happen if they are clean and free from obstruction.

Inspect The Evaporator

The evaporator fan could be obstructed with ice or just the blades won’t spin freely. Once you’ve determined the fan is moving correctly, check the fan motor. To do this use a multimeter and check for continuity. If the evaporator fan motor isn’t working, the freezer will stay frosted but the fridge won’t cool anymore.

Inspect The Start Relay

The start relay makes the compressor start, if the start relay is not operating the compressor won’t run either. Using a multimeter check the start relay for continuity and if you can smell a faint smell of burning, or the relay rattles on shaking it, it will need replacing.

Freezer Working Fine, But The Fridge Is Warm

If the freezer and its contents are frozen but the refrigerator is warm there are a few checks you can make to determine the cause of the problem.

Evaporator Fan

The evaporator is responsible for the circulation of cold air through the system. If it’s faulty, the freezer will still be frozen but as no cold air is reaching the fridge, it warms up. Check that the blades spin freely as this usually indicates the motor is working correctly.

Evaporator Coils

The evaporator coils should be ice free, if there is a buildup of ice on the evaporator coils, unplug the appliance until all of the ice is thawed out. Ice buildup on the evaporator coils could indicate a more serious fault within the defrost system.

Thermistor

The function of the thermistor is to monitor the temperature inside the fridge and relay this information to the control board. The control board uses this information to send power to the correct part to regulate the fridge’s temperature. If the thermistor is faulty, the control board will receive incorrect information which will result in the fridge malfunctioning.

Check the thermistor using a multimeter for continuity which should change as the temperature changes. If it doesn’t change, or there’s no continuity, replace the thermistor.

Damper Control

The damper sits between the freezer and the fridge and allows cold air into the refrigerator to lower the temperature to the set level. It is basically a flap that opens and closes to regulate the temperature inside the fridge. If it gets stuck in the closed position, no cold air can enter the fridge which will warm up.

GE Refrigerator Freezing Food

If you’re finding your refrigerator is freezing certain items of food one of the following could be the cause;

Thermistor Fault

Just as the thermistor can cause the fridge to run too hot, it can also cause it to run too cold. Check using a multimeter, the continuity should change with the temperature, if it doesn’t replace the thermistor.

Faulty Thermostat

The thermostat controls the power to the fan motors and compressor. If it’s faulty, it could be sending too much power and making the fridge too cold. Check the thermostat by turning it to the highest setting, if it’s working correctly, it will click. You can also check it using a multimeter checking for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the thermostat.

Faulty Damper

If the damper is stuck in the open position, it will allow too much cold air into the fridge which will eventually turn into a freezer. When functioning correctly, it opens and closes in order to regulate the internal temperature of the fridge.

GE Refrigerator Not Defrosting

If your GE refrigerator isn’t defrosting the probable cause will be one of the following;

Faulty Defrost Timer

The defrost timer turns the defrost heater on at various times throughout the day. The heater then melts any ice that’s built up on the evaporator coils allowing the fridge to operate correctly.

The dial of the defrost timer should be slowly moved to initiate the defrost cycle.Which starts the defrost heater and stops the compressor.

If the defrost timer isn’t working properly or at all, the defrost cycle cannot run which is why the fridge is not defrosting.

Faulty Defrost Heater

If it’s not the timer, it could be the defrost heater isn’t working, to check it, use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the defrost heater.

Faulty Defrost thermostat

Once the temperature reaches a set point, the defrost thermostat contacts close, this allows power to the defrost heater which starts melting any ice buildup. If the defrost thermostat is faulty, it will need replacing. To check use a multimeter and check for continuity.

Faulty Defrost Sensor

The defrost sensor works in a similar way to the thermostat, except it powers down the defrost heater once the correct level has been reached. If it doesn’t shut the heater down, the sensor will blow its fuse which then prevents the defrost from happening. You will need to check the fuse and the sensor using the multimeter if either one has no continuity, replace as necessary.

Faulty Defrost Control Board

The defrost control board determines if and when the defrost cycle operates. If it develops a fault, the defrost system will fail. It’s rare for the control board to fail though, check the other parts of the defrost system (as mentioned above) first as it’s more likely one of those has failed than the control board.

GE Refrigerator Water Dispenser Not Working

If the water dispenser on your GE refrigerator isn’t working it could down to one of the following;

Water Inlet Valve

The problem here might not actually be the inlet valve, it could be your home water pressure. If your water pressure is lower than 20 PSi (pounds per square inch) the inlet valve won’t open. However, if your water pressure is good it could be the inlet valve is faulty. Check for continuity using a multimeter and replace if necessary.

How To Check The water Pressure

To check the PSi of your water inlet valve, dispense ¾ of a drinking glass full of water and time how long it takes. If it takes up to or less than 10 seconds your water pressure should be sufficient. If not, call a plumber who will advise you on how to increase your water pressure sufficiently.

Blocked Water Tube

The water dispenser tube is located in the door of the fridge, if this is frozen or blocked with ice, water can’t flow through it. Disconnect the tube from the bottom of the door and blow air through it to determine if it’s blocked. If it is, it’s more than likely to be ice that’s causing the problem. This can be melted by either using a hair dryer or pouring hot water through the tube.

Water Filter Needs Replacing

If the water filter needs replacing it could become clogged which will result in no water flowing through the system. If your fridge has a display check to see if the filter light is flashing, if your model doesn’t, be aware the water filter needs replacing every 5 to 6 months or more in hard water areas.

If you have recently changed your water filter check to see it’s the correct part for your refrigerator and that it has been installed correctly.

Other Faults

You should also check the following parts on the water dispenser system;

Door Switch
Dispenser Switch
Dispenser Control Board

GE Refrigerator Ice Dispenser Not Working

If the ice dispenser isn’t working it is most likely due to one of the following;

Faulty Auger Motor

The auger motor rotates the blade that pushes the ice down the dispenser’s chute. If this is faulty, the blades won’t spin and the ice won’t dispense. To check the auger motor, remove the ice bucket, and turn the auger by hand. If it’s not stiff, test the motor using a multimeter and test for continuity and replace if necessary.

Blocked Ice Crusher Blades

If there is any ice blocking the crusher blades, you can thaw it using hot water. This should allow the dispenser to function normally. If the blades are bent or broken, they will need replacing.

Faulty Dispenser Solenoid

The solenoid allows the flap in the dispenser to open which allows ice to travel through it. Once the dispenser has finished dispensing ice, the flap closes again. If the solenoid has developed a fault or has failed, the flap won’t operate which will prevent ice from being dispensed. Check for continuity using a multimeter and replace if needed.

Check the actuator pin on the dispenser at the same time, this should move without any resistance, if not, it will need replacing too.

Faulty Control Board

If the control board develops a fault, the system will malfunction. It is rare for this to happen however, so it’s best to run the other checks first.

GE Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Making Ice

If the ice maker on your GE refrigerator isn’t making ice it could need replacing. However, there are a few checks to consider first, these include;

The Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is the only way water can enter the ice maker, if it is faulty, the ice maker cannot make any ice. The first thing to check is the water pressure is sufficient. The ice maker needs 20 PSi to function correctly (check as per the water dispenser section above).

If the water pressure is good, the fault will either be with the power level reaching the inlet valve or the valve itself is faulty.This is ideally a job for a qualified technician.

Freezer Temperature

Check the temperature of your freezer, if it is not set correctly, the ice maker cannot make ice. The freezer temperature should be 0F (-18C) and should never exceed 10F (-12C).

Water Filter Issues

If the water filter is overdue for replacement, it could prevent water from reaching the ice maker. If you have recently changed the water filter, check it’s the correct filter for your refrigerator and that it’s installed correctly.

Ice Maker Switch

Check the ice maker switch is in the “on” position. If it is, test the switch using a multimeter for continuity and replace if necessary.

Ice Maker Won’t Dispense Ice

After checking for the obvious which include;

Ice Maker Switched Off
Water Inlet Valve Closed
Water Supply Shut Off
Ice Maker Not In “Pause” Function
Ice Bucket Over Full

Check for;

Freezer Temperature Set Too High

If the temperature in the freezer is too high, the ice maker won’t produce ice so it can’t dispense it.

Ice Trapped In The Dispenser

This is a common cause of the dispenser not dispensing ice, a piece (or pieces) of ice gets lodged in the dispenser and causes a blockage. On freeing the blockage, the ice should dispense freely again.

If all else fails…

Reset The Ice Maker

To reset the ice maker, turn the shut off switch to the “off” position and wait for at least 30 seconds before turning it back on again. Then push the feeler arm up 3 times fast. The ice maker should now be reset.

Alternatively, disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply for 10 to 15 minutes and then reconnect the power. This is called a hard reset and can be used to reset your GE refrigerator in much the same way as rebooting a computer.

GE Refrigerator Runs Constantly

If the refrigerator is constantly running and doesn’t stop at all it could be one of the following;

Temperature Too High

If the temperature setting is too high the refrigerator will have to work harder to cool the contents which means the compressor will keep working in an effort to cool the fridge down. Reset the temperature level and check it periodically to be sure it remains at the correct level.

Dirty Condenser Coils

If there is a buildup of dirt around the condenser coils they will not dissipate heat as efficiently which will in turn, cause the fridge to work too hard and run continuously.

Defrost Heater

If the defrost heater isn’t working properly, ice will build up around the evaporator coils which will cause the unit to overheat. The fridge will then need to work harder to try to dissipate that heat. Which will keep it running.

Open Door

When the fridge door is slightly open, warm air enters the fridge causing the internal temperature to rise. The fridge detects this increase in temperature and has to keep running to try to compensate for the rise in temperature.

Door Seals

Likewise if the door seals are defective or even dirty, the fridge detects the warm air and works harder to eliminate it.

Faulty Fan Motor

If the condenser motor or evaporator motor is faulty it could cause the compressor to overwork to try to lower the temperature levels within the fridge.